INDO - NEPALESE WOMEN'S EVEREST EXPEDITION - 1993
EIGHTEEN SUMMITS BY BACHENDRI PAL

This is the story of a team of women who dared to climb the highest mountain in the Himalayas, stepping into the domain of male dominated sport. From the moment the decision was taken it was clear that the women would have to overcome many more mountains, most of them in the plains where stiff opposition would meet every step they take. Perhaps the event was much ahead of its time and like in the other fields of endeavour the ambitions of women was not understood. The Indian social structure showed the negative processes once again.

It had dawned on me since I rose from the snow ice Avalanche to reach the Summit of the Everest in 1984 about the emerging WOMEN POWER. Most of the male members after the avalanche were badly shaken they refused to go up further.

On return from Everest in 1984 I dreamt of going back to Everest - this time to lead an expedition for giving maximum opportunity to others. This dream became my mission in life when in 1984 itself I met Mrs. Indira Gandhi. She had exhorted - Bachendri, you must promote the spirit of Adventure in Rural Women so that they can show the inherent talents in them and use them to their advantage. I want to see hundreds of Bachendris.

I had gone to Nepal for booking Everest for Tata Steel and Rita had joined me. I talked at length on the composition of the team to be chosen for Expedition with Rita. We decided to keep it an All Women expedition. In any case I was totally inclined for giving maximum opportunity to women.

Sometime during this period during the course of the AGM of IMF I also had to face the wrath of some of the mountaineers, just because I wanted to lead an All Women's team to the Top of the world. In sheer disgust after the AGM I wrote a CONFIDENTIAL letter to Capt. Kohli, President IMF giving vent to my feelings & highlighting the negative attitude of the few male mountaineers. This confidential note was circulated among the sponsoring Committee members by President subsequently. Taking advantage of this, one or two (nobody knows) Sponsoring Committee members leaked the letter to the PRESS. It made sporting headlines. I still do not know how a confidential letter written to President IMF found its way to the Press. It is apparent that there were differences between the sponsoring committee members and opportunity was taken to shoot from others shoulder. Or should I say hiding behind a woman's skirt? Yet an impression was created that I gave the letter to the press. If I really wanted to I would have called Press Conference instead of writing confidential letters. Be that as it may, whatever I had written was the truth.

The preparation for the Women Everest Expedition started in 1990 with letters being sent to all over India for women to apply for taking part in the selection of the Everest Expedition. Only 34 women from all over India applied, which really showed that woman had yet to identify with mountaineering as a sport.

There were a lot of women from rural backgrounds among the 34. This was also the highest number of women to be selected for any expedition in the history of Indian Mountaineering.

Being the Leader I had to take a decision of the choice of peak. I chose Kamet because of its height, its long approach march and my previous experience of leading a Tata mixed team successfully. But I knew my biggest challenge would be to mould a team of inexperienced mountaineers to one of high achievers. We also had to plan, organise and execute the first Pre-Everest selection expedition to Mt. Kamet from start to finish. Every team member was allotted specific work, thus distributing the work load evenly. There was another thing quite apparent. I found women to be very honest committed to the task at hand easy to get along with. I have led all male Expeditions, mixed Expeditions and now all women Expedition. The camaraderie fellow feeling, honesty and dedication in all women team are unmatched. My colleague of 1984 Rita Marwah was the Deputy Leader and I was happy to have her.

As the expedition progressed the ground realities forced me to oversee all the aspects of the expedition from load ferrying to establishment of various camps and route opening. Undeterred, from Camp V (23000 ft.), I encouraged the team to within 100 ft. of the Summit of Kamet (25446 ft.), weather forcing us to withdraw. However, 19 women climbed the satellite peak Mt. Abi Gamin (24130 ft.). Whenever I found any difference of opinion during the course of the Expedition, I would call on open meeting and discuss each and every aspect of the expedition, so that everyone was clear and there was no scope for developing any kind of misunderstanding.

I had also developed a new strategy for Summit attempts which proved successful on Mt. Kamet and Mt. Abi Gamin. Instead of sending small teams in 3/4 batches for the Summit, I planned for larger groups for one or two attempts. At those high altitudes, I was aware that each member could support the other and would also give the vital psychological advantage to keep going for the Summit.

In spite of the splendid success of the first Pre-Everest Expedition, I found that people who matter was not convinced about All Women mountaineering expeditions and giving support further. Everest was still a distant dream at this point of time. As the months went by, I found I was the only one concerned for the second Pre-Everest Expedition. I would leave my work in Tata Steel where I Head a Department, and my family as well as my programmes being conducted in Uttarkashi, to be in Delhi to pursue for funds for the Expedition. The Sponsoring Committee of the IMF also regretted their inability to provide funds. The mental agony I went through at that time was tremendous. I was sandwitched between Jamshedpur & Uttarkashi and I started to feel that I was wasting my time if nothing materialised. But God has always come to my rescue whenever I seem to be in trouble. I came to know that Mr. M. J. Akbar was in Delhi as an advisor to Mr. Arjun Singh. I knew Mr. Akbar personally since the time he visited Jamshedpur a few years back. I immediately telephoned him although it was a Sunday. His response was spontaneous. After giving me a patient hearing he advised me to send the proposal for the 2nd Pre-Everest Selection Expedition the next day, which I did promptly.

During this period itself I came to know about Mr. Akhil Bakshi who was now the officer on special duty to the Prime Minister. I knew Mr. Bakshi a little from my occasional meetings with him when he was the DG of Nehru Yuva Kendra Sangathan. I gave him the entire picture of my effort for an all Women Everest Expedition. Being, himself a great mountain lover and a keen adventurer he saw the sincerity in what I was doing and gave me assurance to go ahead with the planning for the Everest Expedition. Suddenly I found that I was not alone after all and there were people in the right places to lend a helping hand. Subsequently by Department of YA & Sports.

Out of the 34 Women of the first selection expedition, the team was pruned to 17 of the better climbers for the second Pre-Everest Selection Expedition to Mt. Mamostang Kangri (24626 ft.) in 1992. Here too we had to plan, organise, conduct and lead from start to finish. There was lot of initial problems to be over e.g. funds, transport, release of required Instructors and Doctors. This made us even more determined. A carefully planned acclimatization at Leh enabled us to climb stock Kangri and settle various problems. However, my niece Seema Tolia who joined the Expedition straight from her college in Dehradun, having a slight cough, developed chest infection in Leh and had to be sent back because we had no Doctor to give timely help. I was extremely sad. She had done a few expeditions with me and I found her to acclimatise well at high altitude. She was a promising climber having performed extremely well on Mt. Kamet. Anyway, the expedition otherwise progressed in a well planned way. Mr. R. K. Singh, Director (G) in the Ministry of Defence who was very helpful since our first Pre-Everest Expedition, when approached, released one lady Doctor from the Services.

She ultimately joined us at Base Camp to our great relief not only physically but psychologically as well. One by one we overcame the challenges. The new strategy for the Summit was tried gain. High up from Camp IV (22000 ft.) where I was perched, the team was encouraged to go for the Summit and they did. 15 members in all including 10 women climbed the peak on August 15, 1992. This was the first ascent to Mamostang Kangri by women. On return to Delhi, instead of being thrilled on their achievement some of the women began to worry. The working women were refused leave from their employers and they were afraid of action being taken against them. I felt extremely sad. This then was the Society we live in, which lacks total understanding on the ambitions of women. I took up the matter with the Government of India. Although they did their best but nothing materialised. How can we expect OLYMPIC MEDALS & reach world standards when we are still struggling with the basics of existence. It is apparent that sportsperson who have been able to make a mark at highest level has done so against all odds and is not a product of a system. There are exceptions which only go to prove the rule.

I was in Delhi since my return from leading the 2nd Pre-Everest Expedition to Mamostong Kangri. I was running from pillar to post for required funds for the Everest Expedition. I felt quite alone and would often sit on the roof of IMF Building gazing into the sky lost in thoughts. I spent Diwali also sitting thus, watching the fireworks lit up the sky. Everyone was enjoying with their families, but here I was in Delhi stuck in between my village house in Nakuri and Jamshedpur. My colleague Rita during this period was a great help and the only consoling factor. When I confronted Ms. Mamta Banerjee, the then Minister of state for YA & Sports for giving full support to the expedition, she understood the position I was in and while encouraging me she told "Bachendri, you have to struggle alone".

I also met Mr. Qureshi, Jt. Secretary in the Department of YA & Sports. I knew Mr. Qureshi from my earlier meeting and later while organising Pre-Everest selection expeditions. I was sure of his understanding & encouragement. He promptly said "Bachendri collecting funds is not your problem, this is now our responsibility". Coming at a time as it did, this was a tremendous morale booster.

I still found that people were generally playing down our achievements on the 2nd Pre-Everest Selection Expedition. In fact women were being grossly underestimated. I could not understand this trend as our performance in the two selection expedition was a clear indication of their capabilities and of the shape of things to come. Even the small mountaineering fraternity showed a lack of understanding. With a result, proposals were mooted to form monitoring committees by the IMF as well as by the Government of India to oversee the preparatory and planing work. Later the proposal for forming monitoring Committees was dropped altogether.

By now I had built a team which went much beyond climbing mountains. It was a team in the truest sense. The 2nd Pre-Everest expedition was used for training the team to work together. Each one was made to experience their strengths and weaknesses. All apprehensions and fears were removed from the team and complete trust developed in each other. There was another thing in our favour and that was confidence. This was acquired through the two Pre-Everest Expeditions in which the team performance was remarkable.

Overcoming all the hurdles in Delhi took away our precious time which should have otherwise been utilised for planning. It was decided to give Yeti Travels the agency for porterage and other arrangements in Kathmandu. Therefore keeping in mind the good and the bad experience of 1984, which used the same agency, Bikrum Pandey of Yeti Travels was called to Delhi. Rita and I had several round of talks with Bikrum and it was made clear to him that since very little time was left for planning and organising work, he would have to ensure supply of reliable porters and oversee agreed matters in Kathmandu, as we did not want to waste our energy on these aspects. The understanding developed in Delhi was extremely helpful for the smooth conduct of the Expedition.

The team was announced on November '92. The team assembled in Delhi in December '92. Already valuable time was lost. But the women were aware what they had to do. All of them rose together in unison for the enormous organisational work required for an Everest Expedition. It was only with their honest dedicated efforts that work which could have normally taken 12 to 18 months, was completed in just 3 months.

In between the organisation work I also sent a group of women for winter training programme in Manali under expert guidance of Col. Premchand, which proved to be of immense benefit to them. All of them were highly motivated and inspired by his method of training.

The team left the capital on March 3 with Brig. Gyan Singh & his wife, President IMF, Mr. Rawat, Mr. Pangty & many other well wishers and family members seeing us off at the Airport. After lining up our porter requirement, communication network and final purchasing of equipment and food in Kathmandu, we started the approach march from JIRI on March 10. All the preparation and planning was behind us and time come to put the plan in action. I had made 2 parties i.e. main party and advance party. Being aware that there would be some other expeditions attempting Everest during same period, the plan was for opening the ice fall route by giving and taking help, a joint effort with other teams. Rajeev, Baldev and Nima flew to Lukla with bulk of the load. The rest of us journeyed on foot on an up and down gradient, for better acclimatization of members, with nearly 100 porters carrying our rations and gas cylinders.

The journey was devoid of any excitement by way of scenery or meeting people. However, there was an inner excitement in the team of their destiny with Everest. I personally found quite a few changes since 1984. A lot of lodges had sprung up as a result of the promotion of adventure tourism. People were much better off now. At the same time I found prices of all commodities had raised 4 fold. Rita and I would sometimes eat in the lodges as we used to during 1984 Everest Expedition, and although it made a big dent on our individual purses, we got the same enjoyment.

It took us 12 days to reach Namcha Bazar. This journey helped us a lot in our physical conditioning and was to prove extremely useful later. It is in Namche Bazar the team had the first good view of the top of Everest and the young women stood watching in awe. The high rising mountains all round changes the total scene and one becomes aware of the serious climbing ahead. From Namche we reached Thyang Boche, where we offered prayers in the famous monastery. The monastery was newly built after it was destroyed by fire after 1984. I found a different look altogether.

There were a few other expeditions on the approach we came across on our trek from Namche. We met the All Women Korean team. They informed that 2 other all male team from their country were already in base camp. There was the Australian team led by Tashi Tenzing grandson of Tenzing Norgay, attempting Everest to coincide with the first ascent of Everest by Tenzing & Hillary (40th anniversary). We also met Nepalese all women team led by Pasang Lhamu Sherpa. We became quite friendly with the team. I went out of my way to create a friendly atmosphere as initially some misunderstanding had crept up which I did not like to continue. It was important that from our side we did not give any scope for any complaint or lack of hospitality to any other team.

Rajeev and Nima were sent ahead for establishing base camp. Baldev and one Sherpa were left behind at Namche for receiving the Liaison Officer. Because of some slip up, Baldev also had to go all the way back to Lukla for bringing the Wireless set. Fortunately the set had arrived at Lukla which relieved us a great deal.

So far the weather had been relatively good. As luck would have it we got stuck in Lobuche from March 24 to 26 because of heavy snow fall. For me it was a time for reflection. Reflection of my feelings of the change since 1984. As a member in 1984, being a green horn mountaineer, I did not have the worries of either a Leader or an experienced member who knew what the stakes were. I had taken each day as it came along and tried to give my best performance. Leading all important expedition like this one, (the first Indian all women expedition) with all sorts of controversies and the additional pressure of making a success of this historic expedition, was a complete different scene altogether.

I could practically feel the responsibilities weighing on me. The memories of the 1984 Expedition were still fresh in my mind. I had however planned my expedition very-very carefully with alternate plans also made to meet any unforeseen situation. Right from the beginning I had built up an environment of faith and trust and mutual respect between my team and Sherpas and to show equal concern for their well being. In fact, this is inculcated in me by my parents who always preached and practised "to BE KIND IS THE ESSENCE OF RELIGION". This trait has helped me a lot in my life so far, even for promoting adventure among youth specially women at grass root level, as part of my work in Tata Steel.

Base Camp

Finally on March 27 we reached Base Camp. The base camp which we had selected was well chosen and the place converted into our temporary headquarters from where we would launch our expedition. There were about 14 expedition teams in all, attempting Everest from different routes. Later however, when they failed in their attempts they came to same route. So far things had gone according to plan.

By now we had become quite friendly with the sherpas. We started eating from one kitchen which bridged whatever little gap that remained. Unfortunately, one kitchen boy and one sherpa became ill and not wanting to take chance (memories of 1984) I sent them back. In the true Indian tradition we extended hospitality to other teams for dinners. Our team created a very good impression on others. However, they were a bit sceptical of our mountaineering prowess. Later, when they saw our women carrying loads on the ice fall, did they realise the strength of our team. We also extended hospitality to trekkers from Bangalore and Bombay and many others from India & Abroad.

Before we started load ferrying, the team was put through their paces for ladder crossing. This developed a lot of confidence when they actually negotiated the ice fall. Looking at us, other teams followed suit.

A peculiar situation also arose which became a cause of worry. The men's Korean team, who had found a route through the ice-fall, were demanding 200 US Dollars per head for using their route. Rita met them again and again for negotiations. I had already made up my mind not to concede to their demand. However, I found other expeditions paying up. I told them that we had purchased equipments in Nepal and if they wanted they could have the equipments which otherwise we would have used in the ice-fall. They got quite fed up with my tough stand and made remark like "Indian women are big problem".

When they found it futile to get money out of us, a compromise solution was worked out. We gave them some equipment like carabiners, ropes, pitons, aluminium ladders and 50,000 Nepalese rupees. We also kept two of our sherpas to maintain the icefall route throughout, which ultimately helped everyone in the uninterrupted progress.

For load ferry and acclimatization, 2 teams were made A & B. I led the A team whereas Rita was with B team. Rajeev Sharma and Sherpas were distributed equally in A & B teams. We started our load ferrying on April 2 and I personally went that day. The members on seeing me were surprised as they thought that a leader was not required to do all this. However, this motivated the team a great deal. This is something which I have learnt over the years from experience. To lead from the front makes the whole difference between commanding respect and demanding respect.

Women carried loads of 12 Kgs. and sherpas carried 15 Kgs. 2 ferries to C-1 were made compulsory. Everyone rose to the occasion and performed extremely well. Chandra didi, had some problem at Base Camp, but later improved. For 8 days continuously, load ferry was carried out by both A & B teams. Camp 1 was occupied on April 10 by A Team consisting of Sarla, Deepu, Radha, Anita, Kunga, and Nima.

Western CWM

It takes nearly two hours to reach Camp II (21600 ft.) from C-1. Each member was required to load ferry twice. I too did load ferry which apart from motivating my team enabled me to meet the advance party to plan out the establishment of C-III at 24000 ft. They had earlier gone for route opening of C-III. The advance party comprised of Rajeev, Santosh & Sherpas. Santosh had joined to the advance party on 8th April, after completing her 2 ferries to C-1. After doing one ferry each to Camp 2 and 3, Santosh had to return to Base camp as she developed severe throat infection. In fact, rest of the members at Base Camp and those of other expeditions also suffered from throat infection, as the particular bacteria thrived in that altitude. Some of the sherpas who had helped in opening the route also went back to BC. But some stayed back willingly with Rajeev. Three of them opened the route to South Col. which marked the beginning of load ferrying to South Col., not only for our team but other teams also.

While 'A' team was load ferrying from C-I to C-II, 'B' team was busy carrying loads from Base Camp to C-I. 'A' team finally occupied C-II on April 15, while B team occupied C-I at the same time. It is in C-II we heard of one Korean and one Sherpa reaching the summit of Everest from North side and descending from South East side because of bad weather. The news was well received by all of us and it did boost our morale. It was the first success on Everest in the season.

Lhotse Face

One load ferry to C-III was made mandatory for everyone. I wanted to see the performance of the members at high altitude to enable me decide on the Summit teams. The movement plan to C-III was divided among both team A & B. On April 16 A team ferried to C-III while B Team ferried to C-II.

Bimla after spending 2 nights at C-II found her chest infection aggravated by the high altitude. She coughed one whole night. She took her own decision to return to Base Camp. Harsha who had developed crampon problem on the first day of load ferry to C-II could not ferry the next day also. She also took her own decision to return back to Base Camp. These were 2 set backs for us as I wanted to see the entire team fully fit for the Summit. At the same time I was aware that Everest was too big a mountain and it allowed only those having physical and mental endurance of a very high order to try for the Summit. Set backs are part & parcel of an Everest Expedition and one has to take these on their stride.

Rest was taken on April 17 by A Team while B Team ferried to C-II. The rest period was utilised for teaching members on the use of oxygen equipment at high altitude. On April 18 A team including the Leader occupied C-III. I had made it a point to go to C-III to remove the psychological fear in my team. They were aware that I was trapped under an ice avalanche in 1984 and nearly lost my life. The Camp at Lhotse is precariously placed and there is always lurking fear of an avalanche. Coming again to C-III, as I did, restored the team's confidence. The team members later acknowledge this. Down below the B team ferried to C-II and occupied it on April 18.

On April 19 the A Team went further up and reached beyond the 'Yellow Band', with Rajeev accompanying them. This was more of an exercise to test the endurance of the team at high altitude where oxygen is less. I talked to Rajeev on the Walkie Talkie from C-III, who reported the team's excellent fitness and acclimatization. They were not even using oxygen and this was an extremely good indication on the member's physical and mental shape. They returned to C-III and I was very happy to see them. After putting the Camp in order we returned to C-II. The 'B' team who were resting that day welcomed us with hot drinks and there was much merry making. The cold desolate place did not dampen the spirit of the women.

On April 20 while the 'A' team returned to Base Camp 'B' team went into action for load ferry to C-III. Baldev was with the B Team. Dicky, Savita and Nimmi completed their ferry to C-III. Few of the other women who could not complete the ferry that day did so the next day. As already mentioned, two women (Bimla & Harsha) had returned to Base Camp. 'B' team occupied C-III on April 21. The next day as per schedule they were to go unto Yellow Band and come down to C-II. However because of acclimatization problem to some of the members as reported by Baldev on Walkie Talkie, the 'B' team could not go up & descended to C-II.

The entire movement of A & B Teams were closely monitored by Rita & me. We could easily make out their all round performance of load carrying capacity, pace, acclimatization and team spirit at different altitude. All this made the selection of SUMMIT teams very easy and open.

Plan for Summit

All members returned to Base Camp on April 24. Till then the weather had been quite stable. But on Everest a spell of good weather is followed by a spell of bad weather. So it was, when everyone was in Base Camp the weather turned foul and for the next five days we were stuck in Base Camp. But thank God, we had throughout good weather during establishing different camps.

For me it was a time for deep reflection again. The new strategy I had adopted on both Pre-Everest Selection Expeditions on Mt. Kamet and Mt. Mamostong Kangri had worked wonderfully. Big teams for the summit had given spectacular successes on just one or two attempts. I knew such big teams at those high altitudes give tremendous psychological advantage to one another as well as mental strength to keep going. By now I knew the physical fitness of each of the member, as I had gone along with them upto C-III.

At the same time, I knew Everest was the ultimate challenge for any expedition and the hazards to be overcome was unlike what we had experienced before. The decision for the Summit teams would have to be very calculated, keeping in mind the Ration, Oxygen & fitness at South Col. and beyond. I had to take the weather conditions also into consideration and for this I relied heavily on the Indian weather forecast given by AIR and also kept in touch with the British weather forecast for the same.

I discussed the strategy with Rita. Rita and I were in the 1984 Everest Team and our friendship had grown since then. I had tremendous faith in her and she was a source of great strength for me. When I was leading the A team, she took charge of the lower camps and led the B team herself. We always talked on the walkie talkie to know each others progress. 1984 experience itself was a great help & I planned according to my own good and bad experiences of 1984, like I did during the two Pre-Everest Expeditions. I paid particular attention for providing the correct food needed at different altitudes which nourished all the members throughout the expedition.

While all the preparation and planning was going on, the tragic news of the death of Pasang Lhamu and one Sherpa was confirmed. She was the Leader of the all Nepalese Women's team. She had become the first Nepalese woman to climb Everest, but had perished on her descent because of bad planning. This news shook my team very badly and I called all of them and assured them that this tragedy could have been avoided.

This tragedy also made me realise our limits and made us more alert about the pace, stamina, plus mental and physical endurance. I did not want to take foolish decisions just to make everyone happy.

Passang Lhamu's death also proved that at that altitude no one can survive if they are not physically fit. 5 Sherpas were with her but she still perished. On Everest only mental strength cannot take us to the Summit. Sherpas after all are also human beings and at best can only accompany a member. They cannot carry members on their back or for that matter pull them or push them to the summit as people generally think, particularly in case of women.

April 30 was a good day. Weather had cleared raising the team's spirits. I was just waiting for such a day to announce the team. The team had selected itself based on their all round performance. The first team comprised of Deepu, Anita, Nimmi and Radha. The second team consisted of Sarla, Kunga, Santosh and Dicky. A reserve team of Suman and Savita was also announced. This was done to avoid any confusion as to who would fall in line in case of such an eventuality or in case we had additional resources and time in hand. This was keeping in line with what I had set out to do i.e. to give maximum opportunity to maximum women to climb Everest.

First Summit Attempt

Both summit teams set off for camp-I on May first with the leader. In the meantime all the sherpas with Rajeev occupied Camp II. The plan was to ferry some vital loads not carried earlier to C-IV. Since there were quite a few expeditions going on simultaneously, we had heard of equipments getting stolen. Items like oxygen cylinders, tents (only few had been put up earlier) etc., had to be carried to C-III and C-IV. The Australian team helped us by giving their tents for South Col. We in turn helped them by letting our porter's carry their load from Base Camp to South Col. It was nice to co-operate closely with other countries in situations when one could look at only each other, for support caste, colour, creed, religion etc.

On May 2nd the first summit team occupied C-II and the next day moved to C-III. On May 4, Deepu, Anita, Nimmi and Radha left for C-IV at South Col (26000 ft.). All of them except Radha reached South Col. She returned from below the yellow band. She was feeling giddy because of lack of oxygen. She came down to C-II with a Sherpa. I got extremely annoyed for her amateur decision. Obviously she was not at all inexperienced in coping with high altitude physiological changes. Nimmi, Deepu and Anita arrived at South Col. in perfect physical condition. They used oxygen only while sleeping that too after my persuasion. I wanted them to preserve their energy for the next day.

The unpredictable weather again showed up its ugly face on May 4 all of a sudden. I talked to Rajeev on the walkie talkie and told him to proceed for C-IV spend a night and try for summit only if weather improved. Other teams were found returning from C-III and C-IV couple of days later, a decision which they regretted, when they found our team had kept on the progress.

Our decision to keep up the progress on May 5th was largely due to the weather report given by AIR on May 4th which informed of fair weather conditions for the next 24 hours. I conveyed the weather report to Rajeev to enable him take a decision. I would religiously tune to the weather report flashed by AIR everyday which I found fairly accurate. I would convey this to Advance team which helped us decide on our progress. As it worked out, we were the first team (after the tragedy of Pasang Lhamu sherpa) to open the route beyond South Col. Rope was fixed by us on all the difficult faces unto south Summit. This not only gave the psychological advantage to other Expedition teams, (especially after the tragedy), but later they used our fixed ropes to reach the Summit.

Members of other expedition teams coming to know of our upward progress gathered round our Base Camp & C-II. They were eager to know about our summit attempt. Most of them were extremely disappointed for their team's decision to come down. However, we had no knowledge of the snow condition beyond South Col.

The second summit team in the meantime had progressed to C-II on May 3 and stayed there the next day also. On May 5 the second summit team reached C-III but had to return as the days drama unfolded.

At 00.30 hours on May 5th Nimmi, Deepu, Anita, Rajeev, Nima Norbu with sherpas Nim Dorjee (climbed Everest twice already), Sirdar Nag Temba and Nima Rita set off for the Summit. We made effort to have a support team of Ang Dorjee (who was with me in 1984 and extremely reliable) and one more sherpa to maintain emergency camp above South Col. (having a tent, oxygen cylinders and water provision) for the first attempt. However, this could not be done and they remained at South Col. which also proved helpful. The summit attempt had really begun. All of us were very anxious and eagerly awaiting to hear the news from the Summit party. Rajeev came on air at 7 a.m., much to our relief and informed of the slow but good progress. There was too much snow deposited which made movement difficult. We could make out the tremendous effort and struggle of the team by what Rajeev narrated. Weather was however good. Because of the struggle in climbing, contact on the Walkie Talkie was at long intervals. There was mixed feelings amongst the team at lower camps. Anxiety, anticipation, expectancy, urging them on in our minds, also a feeling that it was possible against all odds. Then at 3.30 p.m. Rajeev again came on air. They were very close to the South Summit. What was to be done? I told him to keep in mind the time, weather & physical fitness before proceeding. Rajeev reported that although weather and physical fitness was good, it was too late to carry on. Still, they persisted with the climb. The women displayed tremendous courage and tenacity in the face of adverse ground conditions and extreme physical and mental effort. At 4.30 p.m. the team had braved their way to the South Summit. It was great going till then. But it had become too dangerous to carry on, even though only 72m remained for the Summit - about an hour climb more. Rajeev reported on the position at that height and time - weather was good, fitness of climbers was good, and however snow condition on the ground was bad. I told Rajeev to return keeping the safety of climbers uppermost in mind. It was decided to retreat as time was fast running out. The women were very disappointed. Deepu even argued. Nim Dorjee, the high altitude sherpa, retorted "You sleep on the Summit?" It was the correct decision. If we were alive we could always make second attempt. The team finally descended exhausted, disappointed but safe to South Col at 10.30 p.m. They were on their feet for 22 gruelling hours. The 2 sherpas kept for support at South Col was a great help. They went up to receive the team with tea and hot water. Although we had to pay extra for the security and safety of climbers, it gave tremendous psychological boost to have the support at high altitude.

Tired as they were the summit team had to spend an uncomfortable and sleepless night at South Col. The next day i.e. May 6th, they set out early from South Col. for their descent.

Keeping the weather in mind and also the morale of the B team which was not high after Summit failure, I had recalled the B team to C-II from C-III on May 5th. At the same time Baldev and one sherpa Tsering was advised to stay at C-III to help the summit party on their descent. There was another incident at C-III, which I came to know of later through Santosh herself, when she came down to C-II. Santosh suspecting a leak in the EPI gas burner, gave Kunga to light it just outside her tent. The burner burst into flames in Kunga's hand and she threw the burner in a panic towards entrance of the tent. Santosh was trapped inside her tent and screamed for help, Baldev who was also there in nearby tent heard the scream and keeping his presence of mind rushed to Santosh's tent. He put some snow on his chest and flung himself on the fire to extinguish it. He succeeded in putting out the fire but burnt his beard and moustache on one side. A major tragedy was averted and we congratulated Baldev for his brave showing. At C-II he was also nick named BAHADUR BACHA, and his burnt beard and moustache on one side provide a source of amusement to the team members.

It was at C-III on her descent from South Col, Nimmi found one sherpa of the All Women Nepalese team abandoned by his team mates. He was completely exhausted and delirious moving about like a drunken person. On seeing Nimmi, he said that he belonged to the Korean Expedition. He thought Nimmi would not help him if he claimed to be from the All Women Nepalese Expedition. The Women's Nepalese Expedition had started an unholy race to the Summit for which they paid a very high price. Nimmi being the Nepalese member of our Expedition was aware of this, but it did not deter her from doing what was right. With help of Nima Norbu of HMI (One of the technical advisers) she brought the sherpa down from the steep Lhotse face, supporting him physically all the way down. I was extremely proud of Nimmi who showed the highest ethics of mountaineering in spite of various adverse factors and her physical exhaustion.

Nimmi on reaching South Summit with her husband Lakpa, who was a sherpa in our Expedition, became the first Nepalese couple to reach up to that height.

Regrouping

On May 7th rest was taken and a meeting held to decide on future course of action. Nimmi in the meantime went back to Base Camp deciding against going for the summit a second time.

Although the failure of the first attempt had created a temporary set back, we took it in our stride. I had seen triumphs and tragedy on Everest before, and I know Everest represents the ultimate challenge to any mountaineer. The morale of the team was kept high and they were explained that in such a big Expedition, success and failure go hand in hand. The training given to them during the two Pre-Everest Selection Expedition also helped a great deal.

The Second Summit Attempt - (Triumph & Tragedy)

With renewed vigour and morale, B team consisting of Santosh, Kunga, Sarla, Dicky, Baldev and 4 sherpas moved up and occupied C-III on Lhotse face on May 8th. The next day this team reached South Col. from where the summit bid was to be launched. Will the second time prove favourable for us? An atmosphere of mixed feeling prevailed. Will the expedition attain its objectives? Will weather be favourable? There was one thing however sure. The women had acclimatised well and were fit.

At exactly 1 a.m. in the early hours of May 10 the summit team excluding Sarla left South Col. for the Summit. Sarla was relatively inexperienced in mountaineering and the situation overawed her. I was rather disappointed, more so as the experienced climber with her did nothing to motivate her. Sarla returned to C-II. I was monitoring all the movements from C-II where I had stationed myself since 1st May. The progress was agonizingly slow. Weather was relatively stable and as the morning dawned puff of clouds could still be seen above and in the distance. The climb was slow and steady, crossing South Summit and then Hillary step. Suddenly the clouds lifted and so did the sprit of the climbers. Battling some of the world's toughest terrain through snow, ice and chilling winds the team reached the summit at 12.15 p.m. in the afternoon.

It was a momentous day for India & the entire expedition. 8 persons including 3 Women stood atop Everest. Santosh become the only woman in the world to climb Everest twice & Dicky, the youngest woman ever to reach the summit at 19 years age. The team spent half an hour on top offering prayers and taking photographs and then started to climb down. They reached South Col. by 4.30 p.m. They were on their feet for nearly 17 gruelling hours. They had to spend the night of May 10 at South Col.

The Australian team led by Grandson of Tenzing Norgay, Tazi Tenzing, also reached the Summit of Everest on May 10th. One of the summiteers was Lopsang Tsering nephew of Tenzing Norgay. However Lopsang did not return to South Col. and there was a little confusion on the message received from South Col. Some said he was at South Col. and some said otherwise. I kept in touch with Rita and kept her informed of news received on Lopsang. Lopsang was her uncle and she was naturally upset at the conflicting reports. The news of Lopsang's death was received the next day i.e. May 11. He had slipped while descending.

The news shocked us. Rita was very upset. I felt extremely sad. Lopsang was with me on 1984 and had rescued me from the debris of an ice avalanche at Lhotse face. I could only console Rita on Walkie Talkie. There was nothing much we could do. However, in spite of our preparation and planing for the next summit attempt, we organised an evacuation group of sherpas to bring down the body and give a proper burial. It took us nearly 8 days (May 11 to May 18) to bring the body down. In fact our summit team for the third attempt on May 16, saw the body as they were moving upward South Col. The sadness in our heart for our departed friend was more than the happiness of our success.

On May 11 the wind picked up speed and was practically howling. The summiteers exhausted by the climb of the previous day were having a tough time coming down. A support party went up to the Yellow Band and helped Santosh who was descending with 2 sherpas from South Col. Rajeev finally brought her down to C-II safely. Dicky and Kunga felt giddy and suffered from snow blindness and were still at C-III. I fired them and gave marching orders to start descending immediately. Baldev who was accompanying them did a wonderful job of bringing down all of them safely. Dorjee had to stay back in C-IV (South Col.) as he suffered from acute snow blindness. Lopsang and one sherpa was also with him. Chandra didi and Sarla who were with me at C-II, watching the drama in real life till then, returned to Base Camp. Deepu remained with me at C-II.

The Third Summit Attempt

Since the beginning I was very clear that maximum women should get opportunity to climb Everest. We still had a band of good spirited climbers raring to go. There was some problem with Radha's mental make up though, after she had returned from the Yellow Band on May 5th. She had in fact given up hope to try again. But I was very sure of her stamina and strength. I talked to Rita at Base Camp and urged her to get Radha ready for the summit. Time and again I pressed Rita, but Radha's response was negative. After we achieved success on May 10, I again talked to Rita who connected me to Radha. I had to build up her confidence. She was explained that at high altitude climbers suffer from lack of oxygen and physiological changes do take place. She would now be able to cope with high altitude better having gone up to Yellow Band once. This lecture together with the success achieved, made her think positively and she readily agreed to be part of the Summit team.

On May 14, the third summit party of Radha, Deepu, Suman, Savita with Rajeeve, Nima and 4 sherpas, left C-II for C-III at 6.30 p.m. They reached C-III in good time at 11 p.m. Kunga, Dicky and Santosh went back to Base Camp. Deepu who had to return just 200 odd feet short from the summit on May 5th, was persuaded to go for the Summit again. It is here that my previous experience helped. On May 15th the third Summit team occupied C-IV. Like for the other 2 Summit attempts, there was an atmosphere of concern and expectancy preceding the climb.

May 16 proved to be one of the better days as far as the weather was concerned. At 1.30 a.m. early in the morning, the team set out on its journey to the Summit. Keeping a sure steady pace with weather favouring, the progress to the summit was spurred on. Each of the team members derived strength from one another. They had climbed together before and there was perfect understanding among them. The strategy of sending big groups worked wonderfully before and I was confident that it would work again. The steady pace saw them through south summit and then the Hillary step. The route lay along the Eastern slope of the South East Ridge (a virtual knife's edge with vertical drops of thousands of feet on either side) and cut directly across to 100 meters beneath the south Summit from where it is difficult going. The Hillary step is a short vertical ice wall which has to climb through fixed ropes. With chilling winds hitting them straight on and each step laboured, breathing hard, the team of 4 women 2 technical advisers and 4 sherpas finally reached the summit at 10.45 a.m. It was a significant, proud & historic moment for India and Indian Mountaineering.

After staying on top about half an hour, the team beat a hasty retreat considering the unpredictable weather. On May 17 every one reached safely to C-II where there was a mini celebration. On May 20 Base Camp was reached. Everyone was safe which was the most important thing.

Historic Achievement & World Records

This was a historic expedition in more ways than one. India & Nepalese Women to have achieved success as team on their first expedition to Everest was indeed a world class achievement. It was not my aim and objective for leading the expedition for creating records. But that the expedition created as many as 7 world records only went to reinforce the objective of motivating women of both countries to be independent, resourceful and enterprising. The women did not conquer the mountain but conquered themselves and the heart of millions of people of both India and Nepal as Sir Edmund Hillary had rightly said.

This expedition was sponsored jointly by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation and the Nepal Mountaineering Association. The Government of India, Department of YA & Sports financed the Expedition to the tune of Rs. 50 Lakhs. The total expenditure of the expedition comes to nearly Rs. 72 Lakhs. Contributions have been made by a few State Government.

Having said this I want to express my profound gratitude to the Government of India for always encouraging me in my work. In particular, the Department of YA & Sports in the Human Resource Ministry has shown tremendous faith in me and gave me their unstinted support, understanding and encouragement. When I needed help most, Mr. Qureshi told me to treat him like an elder brother and gave me all the help required. This emotional help gave me all the confidence I needed. Mr. Akhil Bakshi, OSD to the Prime Minister was another person who showed also the understanding and gave full hearted encouragement and support right from the beginning to the end. In fact he is still following up on many pending issues of the Expedition.

The encouragement, support and understanding given to me by my employers "TATA STEEL" need special mention. It was since 1991 I was involved with Pre-Everest Selection Expedition. My employers gave me all the opportunity to give my maximum time and attention for the 2 selection Expeditions in 1991 & 1992 and for the main event in 1993. Only because of this I was able to fully concentrate on the ultimate challenge for women. Dr. J. J. Irani, Managing Director, Tata Steel, personally told me that Tata Steel will do everything for me and spare me for 6 months for the Everest Expedition. Mr. A. K. Mattoo, General Manager TISCO, guided me on how to give maximum time for the main event, so that I could keep in touch with the department which I had in the company as well as my big family in Jamshedpur. I am looking after 10 children including 5 orphaned children of Late Ang Dorjee whom I have adopted. I also look forward to such understanding from the mountaineering fraternity, to acknowledge the sacrifices Sherpas/ porters make and to give back in return what they deserve and make their life meaningful. It is only in mountaineering we realise how insignificant we are in front of nature. With this realisation if we can do something for the sherpas/ porters, it will not only enrich our lives but also give them the feeling that somebody cares.

I would also like to express my deep appreciation for Capt. M. S. Kohli, President Indian Mountaineering Foundation, who was the moving force behind the Expedition. I am sure the Indo-Nepalese Women's Everest Expedition has been able to give the country more than it has taken from it.

There were other well wishers and understanding people who gave support when we needed it most. The Border Security Force provided Mess Tents. For the 2nd Pre-Everest Expedition to Mamostang Kangri in 1992, BSF had also provided transport, tents and jerry cans. The ITBP had given us the use of their Walkie Talkie sets during the two Pre-Everest Selection Expeditions. They also provided truck from Delhi to Malari for the 1st Pre-Everest Selection Expedition to Mt. Kamet. Brig D. K. Khullar when requested came to Delhi specifically to give his valuable suggestions on how to go about establishment of camps and open route through the ice fall. He even photocopied the movement plan of Chris Bonnington's Everest Expedition for my benefit. I will ever remain grateful to him for his concern and support. Col. Premchand too gave a helping hand in giving vital winter training to few of the women. His personal interest in giving the training proved to be very useful as was evident from their superb acclimatisation at high altitude. After the training he had written to me "I found the women to be much disciplined, enthusiastic and hard working. They are all potential Summit Climbers". My Office "Tata Steel Adventure Foundation" at Jamshedpur was always at hand to attend to any work required. At crucial periods it provided the much needed support including making available light weight durable plastic sheets for use as kitchen cover, waterproof gunny bags for packing, medicines, and paying the cost for winter training. All this was worth nearly Rupees one lakh twenty three thousand. TSAF provided some mountaineering equipment as well. Every support received at crucial periods gave us tremendous encouragement to pursue the mission we were determined to accomplish. The difficulties encountered on this long and arduous journey to Everest has been an experience of a lifetime, which will help all of us to face future challenges with new found confidence and fortitude.

BACHENDRI PAL

The Team

World Greets Women Everesters